A Venetian Interlude, Part 2

Piazza San Marco

The Piazza San Marco is one of Venice’s most impressive sights. The square has been in existence since the 9^th century, and is currently framed by St. Mark’s Basilica, the Doge’s Palace, St. Mark’s Clocktower, and a U-shaped collection of other buildings whose name escapes me but are currently full of museums. San Marco has existed almost unchanged since the 18^th century, and is unbelievable in terms of both beauty and longevity. The Basilica rivals Notre Dame for its ability to inspire reverence and awe in anyone who sees it. Its great blue domes and ornate stone arches tower above the square, conveying both power and majesty in its construction. The nearby palace of Venice’s ancient Doges is like a smaller and more urban Versailles. Gilt furniture, massive ceiling frescoes, and enough rooms to comfortably house a neighborhood form the home of the most powerful patricians. Perhaps the strangest and most defining aspect of San Marco was the sense of the past that is invoked, however. Only human voices ring out in the square; there are no motors, no television screens flashings ads, and almost no other signs that the 21^st century has dawned on the world. The psychological experience of this piazza eludes my ability to express it, but is almost worth the trip in and of itself. By my observation at least, the reification and fragmentation which characterize the contemporary world are suppressed here. The image loses its power, and one is confronted with the tangible and authentic accomplishments of artistic genius.

…I appear to have waxed somewhat philosophical, and lost myself and Mike in third-person descriptions. Despite appearances then, we did indeed visit San Marco and tour its landmarks. If you’re looking for an exact recount of what is where, this isn’t the place to find it. Go get a guide book. I think it is more important to convey impressions and experiences than to act as a literary camera; actual cameras do a much better job. I will provide travelers with one small warning, however. There are pigeons here. Thousands upon thousands of pigeons. If you have an aversion to these flying rats, you would do well to overcome quickly.